Since we returned from Hawaii, our days at home have gradually settled back into routine. As projects at home and camp demanded our attention, the vividness of that island trip began to soften into fond memories.
Sometimes I find myself asking: did we really go? Did we truly drive to that mountaintop, get slammed by a wave at Big Beach, snorkel with sea turtles at Molokini, stroll along Waikiki, and inhale the sweet tropical breeze?
Yes—those moments happened. Below I’ll recount the last full day of our Maui trip, when we took on one of the island’s most talked-about adventures.
The Road to Hana: A winding, scenic Maui drive worth experiencing
We heard wildly different opinions about the Road to Hana. Some warned us it would make us sick or take forever; others called it spectacular. A few even joked it was “Divorce Road.” Those mixed messages only made us more curious—we had to see what the fuss was about.
“You’re going to throw up.”
“It takes 18 hours!”
“It’s not that bad.”
“They call it ‘Divorce Road.’”
“You should do it. It’s beautiful!”
In short, the Road to Hana is a narrow, cliffside route that clings to Maui’s eastern coastline. Calling it merely “winding” undersells the experience—this is one of the most twisty, dramatic drives I’ve ever been on. The common refrain—“it’s not the destination, it’s the journey”—fits perfectly. Most people advise slow travel with frequent stops to enjoy rainforests, waterfalls, and dramatic ocean views. We, however, set out determined to conquer the road.
What is the Road to Hana?
The drive threads along steep slopes and tight switchbacks, often with dense jungle on one side and sudden ocean drops on the other. Visibility around many curves is limited, so the signs urging drivers to yield to oncoming traffic are constant—and for good reason. Passing another vehicle on a blind turn creates a memorable surge of adrenaline.
That said, the road rewards you with lush scenery, dramatic viewpoints, and cascade-after-cascade of waterfalls. We started our day slowly, lingering over coffee on the beach—trying to readjust to the idea that this was our final full day on the island. Then we headed out, first stopping at a tropical plantation for a quick look around and a cup of local Maui coffee.
The waterfalls and pools at Twin Falls
Our first major stop was Twin Falls, a favorite for its picturesque pools and accessible trails. I had always wanted to swim beneath a real Hawaiian waterfall, and Twin Falls delivered. The trail leads to multiple cascades and refreshing swimming spots—perfectly warm and cooling at the same time.
The hiking there is gentle enough that many visitors wear flip-flops, myself included. After swimming and a quick snack from a nearby stand, we agreed the recommended pineapple-banana smoothie was a must-try—sweet, tropical, and energizing for the next leg of our drive.
The drive itself—frequent stops or full-steam focus?
We reached the twisty portion of the drive in midafternoon. People’s warnings suddenly made sense when, around a blind corner, we came nose-to-nose with another car. Many stretches of the road are narrow with little room for two-way traffic, so patience and careful driving are essential. I developed a high-pitched little squeal during the drive—part fright, part exhilaration—and used it liberally.
The usual advice is to stop often and take in the vistas. We stopped once at a lookout for photos, otherwise we kept moving. We were on a mission to reach Hana and to complete the drive before evening.
Hana and the black sand beach
Eventually we arrived in Hana and made our way to a nearby black sand beach. The shoreline’s volcanic sand was indeed black—beautiful in its own stark way—but the site we visited had more character than glamour. Seeing the beach alongside ordinary amenities like recycling bins made us laugh; the magic of black sand met everyday practicality. Later we learned there are other nearby black sand beaches that offer different perspectives—something to explore next time.
On the drive back, traffic thinned out—late afternoon is a smart time to travel if you want fewer cars on the narrow road. We returned to our lodging to prepare for a low-key evening.
A local hula show and one last Maui sunset
Instead of a big luau with crowds, we attended a free nightly hula performance at a nearby resort. The show was intimate and performed by local dancers—less flashy than some commercial luaus but authentic and fun. As the performance ended, we watched our final Hawaiian sunset. We paused along the road to take photographs and to soak in the colors—knowing the next morning we’d wake to clearer air and the last day of our trip.
More highlights from our Maui trip
- The First Glimpse – Flying into Kahului
- Visiting Upcountry Maui
- Exploring Big Beach
- Kaanapali Beach and enjoying local treats
- Snorkel trip to Molokini Crater and discovering secluded beaches
- The Road to Hana – our full-day drive and waterfall stops
- Tips to note when traveling to Hawaii and a trip highlight reel
The Road to Hana is an unforgettable part of Maui travel—driving it requires focus, respect for the road and other drivers, and an appreciation for the wild, lush scenery. Whether you choose to take it slowly, stopping at each waterfall and lookout, or make it a goal to reach Hana in a single adventurous day, the journey will stick with you long after you return home.