I love furniture with a story. Take this table, for example.
It was sitting abandoned and lonely outside on a deck when I discovered it. Its owners told me I could keep it if I wanted.
I did. In fact, I was in love at first site.
I fell in love with the fact that it had been someone’s Grandma’s.
I loved its natural crackle finish, evidence of long-gone drop leaves, and its petite size with pretty legs.
Over the years, it has been the solution to many a problem in my houses. It has functioned as an entryway table, telephone desk, and even got a custom tablecloth once.
Most recently, it has sat under the windows in our townhouse living room. It’s where I sit daily and work on this little blog business of mine.
It was time to give this pretty lady a little spiff up.
After all the steps were finished, this is how she looks now. (Oh, how I love her…)
It was a process that involved steps for the table top ~ stripping, staining and sealing, along with completely different steps for the apron and legs ~ painting, distressing, glazing, and waxing.
Since I don’t want this blog post to be the length of a novel, today we’ll deal with the table top steps ~ stripping, staining, and sealing. I’ll be back another day to share the how to details for the apron and legs.
(Edited: Find Part 2 “Painting the Farmhouse Table” here)
How to Strip Paint off Wood Tabletop
Supplies Needed for stripping wood:
- Rubber Gloves
- Paint Stripper – I used EZ stripper
- Cheap Chip Brush (that you can throw out when finished)
- Metal scrubbing pags
- Paint scraper tool
- Drop Cloths
- Rags
- An old container to place the stripped paint in
Step by step Instructions for how to strip paint off of wood using a paint stripper solution:
- Using rubber gloves, paint on a thick layer of furniture stripper. Follow the instructions on the bottle and work in a well ventilated area if it directs you to. If possible do this step outside or in a garage with the door wide open.
For this stage, I selected EZ Stripper since it was the only eco-friendly option with water cleanup available at our local shop; its indoor safety made it ideal, though I ensured ample fresh air by keeping doors wide open!
Unlike previous caustic and pungent strippers, this one showed no paint lifting like bubbling; following directions, I applied it for approximately 1 hour, knowing it had to penetrate at least 4 layers of paint!
- Employ a paint scraper tool to remove paint layers while moving along the wood's grain, then place the paint debris into an old receptacle for disposal.
After the allotted time, I began scraping using my preferred tool (visible in the video below), developing an angle for maximum paint removal, although it required considerable effort.
The image above illustrates the table after one stripper application, revealing the original yellow (lead paint) beneath the exposed wood.
- Continue the cycle of applying the stripper and scraping until the desired removal is achieved.
I repeated this procedure two additional times to lift the maximum amount of paint possible.
- Once paint removal is complete, wipe the surface with a damp cloth and then dry it with a dry cloth; if the stripper is water-soluble, use water on the rag, otherwise, use a rag soaked in mineral spirits (or as recommended by the product label). Ensure it is completely dry afterward.
Video showing the wood stripping process
Here is a brief facebook live clip from the final stripping session before moving to sanding:
Thoroughly sand the wood to finalize the paint removal.
After stripping the table with the furniture stripper (a water cleanup item), clean it, allow it to dry, and then sand.
We moved the table outdoors for this step; utilizing a random orbital sander, we began with 220 grit sandpaper across the tabletop and edges, which effectively removed residual paint from the sides and front.
Given the table's age and existing marks, completely eradicating every tiny ding was impractical; I chose to preserve its history, character, and inherent imperfections!
Apply the wood stain to the top.
Before staining, I needed to select a stain color; unsure, I created a sample board using existing stain shades, testing them on a fir board since the tabletop is fir (per my husband).
Observing the stain on the wood guided my color choice; aiming to match the office chair, the final selection was Mission Oak.
Brush the stain onto the clean, dry surface and immediately wipe off with a lint-free cloth.
This step demanded speed; I couldn't pause to photograph while working! To prevent excessive darkening, I wiped it off very quickly after application, rubbing well to highlight the wood grain.
For a deeper wood stain, allow it to remain on the surface to absorb slightly before wiping.
Apply the top seal.
After all the preparation, the surface requires sealing for protection against dings and stains.
I opted for a matte finish, which is completely non-shiny; other options include satin, semi-gloss, and gloss, with increasing levels of shine.
Following the can's directions, I stirred the product thoroughly (avoid shaking to prevent air bubbles) and applied one coat with a sponge brush; while multiple coats would suit heavy use, one was sufficient for now, and I am delighted with the result!
I’ll be back later to share the details of how I painted the legs and apron ~ without losing its historical crackle finish.
For more “How to Paint” projects, check out:
- Painted Electric Fireplace
- Painted Ceramic Lamp
- How to Paint a Dresser
- How to Paint Metal Doors with Plastic Trim
- How to Paint a Room
